Fashion photographer Rankin recreates seven of his favourite
images as he takes a journey through the history of the fashion photograph. In
recreating iconic images by Cecil Beaton, Erwin Blumenfeld, Richard Avedon,
Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, David Bailey and Guy Bourdin, Rankin exposes the
ways in which fashion photography uses fantasy and beauty to communicate
something about reality.
My favourite of all Rankin recreations is the Rua Abriot
VOGUE 1975 by Helmut Newton. This image is very strong. I love the fact that Newton
had the model dressed in a suit, which is more of a masculine look and he allows
the model to make it sexy and still pose like a guy. This photo has a very
sexual ambiguity to it; which is not surprising because newton was well known
for his photo being empowering to women.
Out of all the pictures Rankine recreated I fill that this one
come very close to mimicking the original photo. The fact that he did it at the
same street as Newton took the original photo its ‘wow’. However Rankine
recreated image fills more posed than natural compared to the original which is
more natural. Other than that the resemblance of the recreated photo is very
clear
Heidi Klum, Erin O'Connor, Jade Parfitt, Sophie
Ellis-Bextor, Tuuli Shipster, Mollie Gondhi, Daphne Guinness and David Gandy
are the models for Rankin's shoots, while other contributors include David
Bailey and Lillian Bassman.
The patriate of me is a picture
taken in Kenya over the summer. This photo represents love, fun and happy
moments in my life. I think this picture best shows who i am and my love for
life. Looking at the picture I love how alive and playful I look. This photo
has a sense of freedom to it. Freedom to be myself without holding back.
In this picture I am wearing my favourite
dress. The dress is bright and full of character. This dress symbolises what I won’t
to always be which is happy and full of life and character. This dress is also
an African dress, which shows my love for Africa and a big part of my identity (a
African yang woman).
The background of this picture is
a green land. Any one that knows me knows how much I love green land and the
wood lands hence the trees at the back.
Monochromatic are all shades of one colour. I have used gold
for this look.
On the eyes I have used golden yellow in the inner part of
the eyes and used the metallic gold on the ends to create a smoky look. I have
also used the same metallic gold to contour the face (on the hollows of the cheeks
and the temples). On the lips I have mixed the golden yellow colour and the
metallic gold.
Also here is my attempt to create a different monochromatic look
on myself and on a friend using purple; I have done this to compere show how different
skin tones can complement the look.
In the top look the purple is more visible, this could be because
on the amount of product used as well as the lighting. The purple in the eyes
is very visible as well as the purple on the cheeks and lips however the purple
used to contour the face is not visible at all.
On the second look the purple used is more visible on area
that I have contoured which are the hollows of the cheeks and the nose. It is
also visible on the eyes giving it a smoky look and also the lips. however the look, looks better in real life than in this picture, i would say that lighting has played a big part in the way the look is seen on picture.
Achromatic look. Achromatic colours lack saturation, they are near natural. those colours include black, white or grey.
this image i found on line is a good and simple interpretation of a Achromatic look. this more evident with the eye makeup were the artist has used a white eyeshadow on the eye lids and used black liner to draw very prises black lines. For my look, i used just back and white. the two colours though they are opposite to each other they compliment one another. i used a white eyeshadow on the eye lid and the lower eye lid; and on the lips i used black lipstick. complimentary look. ref: http://www.tigercolor.com/ Colours that are opposite each other on the colour wheel are considered to be complementary colours
light purple and light green are opposite each other on the colour will, therefore compliments each other. for my look i used the two colours against each other to see what would happen. looking at the results i have noticed that the colours do not overpower each other, making it a perfect complimentary look.
Elizabeth I
was expert at what we now call public relations, and she was careful to control
the distribution of images of herself. Elizabeth often only wanted portraits
that portrayed her as youthful, demonstrated her love for her country, her
people and her own strength as Queen. Portraits from within this period are
full of Renaissance symbolism
THE ARMADA
PORTRAIT
This portrait
of Elizabeth I is attributed to George Gower in 1588 and is an oil painting on
an oak panel. It is known as 'The Armada Portrait' because it commemorates the
great sea battle of 1588 when the English fleet defeated the invading Spanish
Armada sent to overthrow Elizabeth. The view of the battle in the two windows
behind the Queen conveys messages of Elizabeth's victory
The Armada
Portrait is a statement of power and authority with Queen Elizabeth I portrayed
as Empress of the world and commander of the seas.
This is
probably the most iconic portrait of Elizabeth the Virgin Queen. Her hand
is firmly on the globe which shows her power is beyond England but across
the world. The Imperial crown reflects her power, position, royalty and
majesty, also her equality with the Holy Roman Emperor and her status as
Empress of the world; whilst the mermaid hints seen in the window portraits
behind her show her as command of the seas. Her dress, is in her preferred
colours of black and white, also proclaims her wealth and class and is covered
with her favourite gems and precious pearls from the sea, a sign of virginity.
This idealized portrait of Queen Elizabeth of
England by Isaac Oliver was painted around 1600, a few years before
she died.
In this portrait, Elizabeth's gown is embroidered with
English wildflowers, thus allowing the queen to pose in the guise of Astraea, the
virginal heroine of classical literature. Her cloak is decorated with eyes and
ears, implying that she sees and hears all. Her headdress is an incredible
design decorated lavishly with pearls and rubies and supports her royal crown.
The pearls symbolize her virginity; the crown, of course, symbolizes her
royalty. Pearls also adorn the transparent veil which hangs over her shoulders.
Above her crown is a crescent-shaped jewel which alludes to Cynthia, the
goddess of the moon.
A jewelled serpent is entwined along her left arm, and holds
from its mouth a heart-shaped ruby. Above its head is a celestial sphere. The
serpent symbolizes wisdom; it has captured the ruby, which in turn symbolizes
the queen's heart. In other words, the queen's passions are controlled by her
wisdom. The celestial sphere echoes this theme; it symbolizes wisdom and the
queen's royal command over nature.
Elizabeth's right hand holds a rainbow with the Latin
inscription 'Non sine sole iris' ('No rainbow without the sun'). The rainbow
symbolizes peace, and the inscription reminds viewers that only the queen's
wisdom can ensure peace and prosperity.
This portrait of Pope John Paul II, was painted by nelson
shanks (who has painted the likes of president Williams Jefferson Clinton,
princes Diana, lord Spencer and many more). The portrait was unveiled in
January 2003, but painted from April to October 2002.
Before painting this portrait, shanks put in a great deal of
research, such as photography work at the mass too sketching the Pope during
privet audience.
Looking at the portrait I get a sense of owe. The painting
has captured the Pope as a holy being, from the white robe to the cross he is
holding; but mostly is the way he has his hand up and open as if he is blessing
someone also it’s a sign of welcome and openness. The gold in is gown is a sign of wealth and
also the gold crown/head piece is a sign of authority and leadership.
The background of the portrait is very captivating. The
gold’s and the brown, makes the portrait look worm and welcoming. If I were to interpret this painting I would
say that the Pope is opening his hands to welcome all in.
Trailer to the upcoming video tribute to the monsters of the Westmore family of special makeup artists in Hollywood by Scott Essman and Visionary Cinema, starring and written by Mark Arnott.
The Westmore
family is a very famous family in Hollywood makeup. The family has had 4
generation of service in Hollywood, led by their patriarch George Westmore.
George Westmore
started his career as a wig maker in England. He later moved his family to the
U.S seeking a better opportunity. Well there he maintained a wig making and
beauty salon business which floated amongst various cities and finally settled
in Cleveland in 1914. George moved to California three years later. On his
arrival in Las angelus in 1917, George Westmore worked at the swank Maison
Cesare a hairdressing salon making wigs and hairpieces. Noticing a gap in the
market George started the fast makeup department in movie history at the selig
studio. Eventually became Billie Burke’s personal makeup artist; All the while
maintaining his chores at Maison Cesare.
George
Westmore had nine children, two of whom died. His children were Monte, Perc,
Ern, Willy, Dorothy, Bud and frank.
Monte Westmore
Monte was born inNewport, Isle of Wight. Monte was the first of Westmore children to leave
home, and in 1920 he began to work first in alumber milland
then as abusboyat the Famous Players-Laskystudio. He worked onThe Sheik(1921)
and convinced actorRudolph Valentinoto
allow him to do his makeup creating the clean Latin look in the process.He
continued to be Valentino's makeup artist until the actor's death in 1926,and afterwards did freelance work withGloria Swanson,Clara BowandSonia Henie. His work onMutiny on the Bounty(1935) which led to him being hired as the head of the
makeup department atSelznick
International PicturesHe also worked at the Oddie Beauty
Salon, where he coachedConstance Nicholswho went on to become the personal hairstylist for
several Hollywood actors and actresses, resting in him being the head of the
makeup department forGone with the Wind(1939),Intermezzo(1939) andRebecca(1940). He personally did the makeup forScarlett O'Harain
the screen-tests forGone with
the Windand also oversaw the
makeup on the extras seen in the film. The amount of work onGone with the Windhas been credited with leading to his
death.In 1940, he underwent atonsillectomy, and following
the operation he had a fatal heart attack on March 30, a few months after the
release of the film.
Perc
Westmore
Perc was born
in 1904 in in conedory Kent and has a twin Ern Westmore. Perc become the head of department at the Warner Bro's
makeup department taking charge of several changes within the companies
running, such as names for shades of hair colour to determine the appropriate
makeup, producing a chart consisting of 35 shades of Blonde alone. Previously
actors and actresses were merely referred to as blonde or Brunette regardless
of skin tones. Within the House of Westmore, Perc was known for his beauty
skills and produced his own range of makeup under the family name. Perc also
became the sole makeup artist for actress Bettie Davis in the film 'The Private
Lives of Elizabeth and Essex' (1939) where she became the first actress to
appear bald onscreen, this was done through the use of a bald cap and also the
shaving of roughly 3 inches from the front of her hairline. Davis had chosen
this to represent a historically accurate interpretation of Queen Elizabeth
I.
Ern Westmore
Ern Westmorewas born in1904 andwas aHollywoodmake-up artist and sometimes actor,
the third child inGeorge
Westmore's famedWestmore familytree.Perc Westmore's
twin, the two were born in 1904 inCanterbury,England,
later moving to theUnited States.
Considered the most talented of the Westmore
brothers, Ern found work atWarner Bros.studio,RKO Studios,
andEagle-Lion Studios. He was
the director of make-up on over 50 films during his career, and was also
featured as himself in a number ofB-movie-style
features forKroger Babb,
includingOne Too Many,
andSecrets of Beauty,
also known asWhy Men Leave
Home, an instructionalprimerfor women regarding how to keep their
husbands faithful. Ern was also involved in the creation of theHouse of Westmorewith three of his brothers. In 1955,
Babb set Westmore up with his own television series. Originally calledHollywood Today, but also
calledHollywood BackstageandThe
Ern Westmore Show,The Ern Westmore Hollywood Glamour
Showwas a program
featuring make-up tips and beauty suggestions. Ern struggled with alcoholism
throughout his life, drinking as early as 1921.He also struggled in his personal life
due to his vices, having been married four times during his life, fathering two
children. Ern died inNew York Cityin 1967 of an apparentheart attack.
Bud Westmore
Bud Westmore was born in 1918. Bud has been credited on over 450 movies and television shows,
including To Kill a Mockingbird, Man of a Thousand Faces, The Andromeda Strain and Creature from the Black Lagoon.
For his involvement in Creature from the Black Lagoon he assisted
the designer of the Gill-man, Disney animator Millicent Patrick, though her role was deliberately downplayed and for
half a century, Westmore would receive sole credit for the creature's
conception. Westmore
was also famous for the make-up for TV show The Munster’s.
Bud was married to Martha Raye for five years and died in 1973
Frank Westmore
Frank Westmore was born in 1927. He was the youngest of the brother. He was
the second Westmore son to be born in America (he was born in Maywood,
California) after his parents and siblings had immigrated to the United States
from England. Frank worked at Paramount Pictures as an apprentice to his older
brother, Wally. Frank also worked on many films, including Farewell, My Lovely,
The Ten Commandments, Houseboat, Two for the Seesaw and The Towering Inferno. he
also did a lot of TV work, including The Munster’s, Planet of the Apes,
Bonanza, Hart to Hart and Kung Fu.
In 1972,
he won the Emmy for 'Outstanding Achievement in Makeup' for the TV Series, Kung
Fu. He was nominated twice more, in 1973 and in 1978 for work that he did with
his nephew, Michael, for The Eleanor and Lou Gehrig Story.
Today the
Westmore’s still stand, Monte's third child Michael
Westmore is continuing a family tradition of teaching the art of make-up. He is best known for his work in various Star Trekproductions, winning nine Emmy Awards. He won the Academy Award for
Make-up in 1985 for his work on
the film Mask. His career began at Universal Studios in 1961,
and spanned four decades, including working for the CIA creating make-up kits for spies overseas. Michael also appears with his daughter, actress McKenzie Westmore, on the SyFy network’s
“Face Off.” a competition series for special effects make-up artists. Michael
advises contestants while they work.
Apply apron on the model to protect them from the makeup.
If they have long hair pull it back in to a ponytail. Must always do a consolation
to find out is the client has any allergies or medical history that could
affect the service or the product used. Also
find out if they have any contraindication. Always wash the hands thoroughly
before torching the clients face.
Tolls used
Foundation brush
Powder brush
Angle brash
Small angled brush
Blending brush
Product used
Kryalan foundation palate
Glamour glow 8 colour palate- used the bronzing sun
Derma colour camouflage palate
Method
-Prepare the model’s skin/face by cleansing, putting
primer and moisturizing the skin.
Apply the foundation mixed with a primer or you can apply
primer before the foundation if preferred.
-I powdered the face; because I chose to use a powdered
contouring product; if I was using grassy products to contour I would have not powdered
till the end.
-Using my finger I fill around the face to determine where
I need to contour. Fast fill the cheeks then the nose and the brow.
-Using a shade darker than the model natural skin complexion
start by applying lightly on the hallow of the cheeks bones, add if need more. Blend
all the way in to the hair line and then upwards into the temple and the hair
line.
-In the arch of the nose draw a line down both sides of the
nose using the same shade used on the hallow of the cheeks bones. Then blend outwards and down.
-Then shade the jaw line downwards and blend well.
-To highlight, take a shade lighter than the model and Start at the inner corner of your eyes and go down to
your nose, then go up to the edge of your eye. Draw dots in between that
triangle. Blend with a blending brush, a beauty blender, foundation brush, or
concealer brush
-For
the nose, draw a straight line at the middle of your nose using the same highlighting
product chosen; making sure to blend well for a natural look. Also apply on the
middle of the forehead and blend.
-Apply setting powder all over the face
and blend well.
Evaluation
Basic contouring was slightly challenging
for me. I would say there is still room for improvement. Finding which contouring
product to use was a little challenging for me. I did not want to make my model
look overly contoured, but for them to look as natural as possible.
In the end I must say I loved the final
look. And it was very interesting to work on a guy.
It is necessary for a makeup artist to be able to translate a
makeup idea on paper. This is where face charts came in. using water colour
paper always helps with the application of the makeup being used.
On the face chat below I have done just half the face to
show the transition from one to the other. I started by contouring the whole
face. Then I used brown on the inner part of the eye and a dark green on the
end and the crease of the eye lid to create the smoky look. I used the same
green on the lips as well. I used a light pink on the cheek, though on paper I look
brighter.
In order to understand how the makeup works I need to understand
the colour wheel.
Primary colours are pure colours. Not mixed with any other
colour. Primary colours are Red, Yellow and Blue.
Secondary colours are a mixture of two equal primary colours.
The secondary colours are orange, green and violet.
Tertiary colours are a mixture of all three primary colours.
Cool and worm colours.
Colours can be divided into cool or worm colour. Cool colours
tend to be the blues and the worm colours tend to be the reds-yellow colours.
My understanding of the colour wheel will help when am
creating an Elizabethan look.
The Elizabethan makeup was very pale, so can be considered
to be cool. However they painted there chic’s and lips red which is a worm
tone. This is a big contrast to the pale
skin.
My aim is to be able to use the colour wheel to achieve a similar
or my interpretation of the Elizabethan beauty.
In the Elizabethan era pale complexion
was considered to be a sign of prestige. At the time, only the rich women could
afford to have fair skin because poor ones would work outside and that resulted
in a tan. To achieve pale skin, wealthy women of the time would use several
different things. The most common ways to whiten skin was to use Ceruse, a
foundation made with white lead and vinegar (this was poisonous!) Others used eggs white for both fake a paler
complexion and to hide wrinkles.
In the Elizabethan
era, women used black kohl on their eyes to make them look darker. Also the
eyebrow was kept thin and arched, which would create a high forehead (a high forehead was considered
to be a sign of intelligence). For this reason, women would pluck their
eyebrows a lot to achieve the desired look.
During the
Elizabethan period, red cheeks and lips were very popular. To achieve them,
women would use cochineal on the cheeks. Cheeks were also reddened using a
mixture of egg white and ochre’s. Cochineal was also used on the lips, which
could also be reddened by using a red pigment obtained from mercury.
The product used to achieve a white complexion, would often create
all types of skin problems. To get rid of blemishes, wrinkles and spots the
Elizabethans would use lemon juice or a mixture of eggshells, alum, mercury and
honey.
The Elizabethan beauty was very opposite but not that different
to modern beauty, pale skin and veins showing and high foreheads (big foreheads)
was considered to be beautiful. Women painted there skin white drew fake veins
and even shaved their hairline to achieve the high forehead look. I guess not
much as change know, instead of women painting there skin white, they bronze it
up using fake tone; and instead of drawing veins women know draw in their
eyebrows. So although the looks are opposites the same inspiration
is there. This picture of Tyra Banks as captured my heart. Not only do I
love Tyra Banks, I love her In this picture, she has brought the Elizabeth the era look to life. The makeup and hair colour and accessories are all
on point. Everything from the pale skin to rosy chic’s and almost invisible eyebrows
is just perfect. The costume is precise and oh so Elizabeth the 1st. The
costume worn in this picture is something one would expect wealthy women in the
Elizabethan era to wear. The colour of the dress is very similar to the one worn
by Elizabeth in the above portrait
My name is Beth Kabuga. I am a qualified level 3 hairdresser
and I would love and I am aiming to learn more about makeup so I could combine
both hair and makeup as part of my career.
I have very limited makeup experience but a fairly good hair
experience. In the past I have just done makeup on my family and friends and a
few hair photo-shoots for competition and promotion. The most I have ever done
when it comes to makeup is my sister’s wedding, ware I did her makeup and the
brides maids including myself. I must say I was very pleased with it and the wonderful
compliments she and bridesmaids got.
I cannot say I know much about the Elizabethan era except
the fact that it was the golden era and that Queen Elizabeth 1 was known as the
virgin queen. I also know that pale skin was considered to be attractive.
My expectations and my fears for this project are even. For once
I am expecting to be able to talk about the Elizabethan era as is I was there,
by the time I finish with this project. I also expect to be able to bring the Elizabethan
beauty to life in the 21st century.
But my biggest fear is not being able to intemperate the Elizabethan look
to today’s beauty and people not being able to understand what am trying to
show. But all in all I must say that I am
very excited about this project
On my fast week at university we had the privilege of having
Illamasqua come and talk to us about the makeup industry and what opportunities
are available to use . They also did a demonstration of a look they did for the
fashion week, in which I was their very proud yet shy model (yes little me had to sit on stage in front of
60+ students and have my makeup taken off and then have a whole new makeup
done, it was daunting but exiting at the
same time.) I got to learn so many tips that I never knew before, such as applying
PVA glue on the eye brow then applying powder for a no brow look. We also got introduced
to same of their product such as the sheer lip gloss which was my favourite; it
was a violet dark green shimmer in colour and very glossy.
We also got the opportunity to do each other’s makeup and present
it to the Illamasqua team and the rest of the groups. This gave us an idea on
what to expect in industry
We also had the Charles fox makeup team come and have a talk
with us about their product and a little about the company and its history (been
in existence for 65 years and is the only makeup company that produces their
own makeup) IMPRESSIVE.
The team went through the product with us explaining each
product as they go, how to use and how the product can make final look stand
out or how the product can make life easier for us in the industry e.g. they mentioned
the aqua cleans make up remove which work very fast and so making it very ideal
when working with models in industry and need to change there look for a different
shoot.
We got to buy some of their product on the day for 20%
discount. "wop wop"
Also in induction week we were set a task to go to different
makeup stores and find out what their most bought product is. We visited MAC,
smash box, benefit, Laura Marcie and Bobbi brown.
In MAC their most bought product was the retro matte ruby
woo A44 lipstick and the studio fix fluid. Because this products are their most
bought they are displayed somewhere were is easy to see
The next shop was benefit. In benefit their most sold
product is the mascara called 'they’re real!' It has been their best seller for
two years now. AMAZING RIGHT!
The next makeup store was Laura Marcia. Their best selling
product is the tinted moistureriser, the secret consiler and primer .
We also visited Bobbi Brown were we found out that their
most bought product is the long wear gel liner. they had displated their top 10 most popular products as seen in the pictur.
Last but not
list we visited smash box. There we found out that their most popular product
is the primer, their photo finish primer to be specific. we also got given a sample by their lovely
staff.
Our other
project on our fast week was to make a mask. The mask was to try and intemperate
were I would like to be or look like in a few years. Well for once I would love
to have a big afro hence the big hair on the mask, I wold love to have started
seen the world and its beauty hence the gold shiny eye lashed, I would also
love to be working in the challenging yet rewording world of makeup and hair
hence the red lips.
We also visited
the art gallery located in the city library and also visited the mayflower. Both
of those places were tricky to find but we got there at the end.
The summer project
This summer I had the opportunity to create a mood board
showing where I would like to be in the next 5 years. This got me thinking, “Where
exactly do I want to be in the next 5 years?” Fast and foremost I want to have
graduated with a fast in BA make-up and hair design. Then hopefully get the chance
to work with one of the top make-up company like Illamasqua, M.A.C, or Charles fox.
Also I would love to get the opportunity to work in films and the fashion week.
But all in all am open to new opportunity’s
this career has to offer.
Also for the
summer project I watched two films, The Great Gatsby and Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
The Great Gatsby
The great Gatsby
The great Gatsby is a romantic tragedy, a classic literature aiming
to show us what life was like in the second century
For any fashion lover, the great Gatsby is a must see.it is full of
beautiful classic looks which takes your breath away. All the costumes worn by
Daisy (played by caray milligan) are breathtaking and get better and better
each time. All the main looks filched in the films are both classy and modern
at the sometime, which allows the looks to stand the test of time. Then there
is the jewel which stands out; from the big ring Daisy we see on Daisy when she
is fast introduced to us in the film, to purls and ornaments worn by her at the
party which compliments her crystal- beaded gown worn for the big party.
All the costume worn and the make-up done in the film reflected the
Raoul of each character. Daisy’s cloths reflect her as the beautiful woman the
girl next door, the one whose beauty captivates you. In the film she is the
trophy wife. In the other hand there is Daisy’s friend, she is more settle in
her dressing she is mostly in sleek and more natural makeup which gives her a
more serious but loveable look, which fits perfectly with her character. Then there is the mistress, always dressed in
very colorful loud cloths and more seductive make-up which depicted her as a
wild woman matching perfectly with her character.
The man, dressed immaculately in suits. From Gatsby who has a more
colorful wardrobe which we see when he tosses his shirts to Daisy on the bed
and is pink suits to Daisy’s husband who is seen more in black and white suits.
Both the styles are very classy yet can be and is being worn up to this day.
The costume designer in this film was Catherine martin, the
assistant costume design was Silvan Azzi Haras; The costume supervisor was Kerry
Thompson; The makeup designer was Maurizio Silvi and the hair designer was Kerry
Warn.
Breakfast at tiffany’s
Breakfast at tiffanies is a romantic classic. It is based on a novel
by Truman Copote. In the film Audrey Hepdurn who plays Holly, is an independent woman
who douse not need anyone but uses men for their money, so one could call her an Amrican geisha
This film made little black dress fashionable. now every woman has
that black little dress in their closet and it’s all thanks to this film
In the makeup is kept simple and classy in the film, but one thing
that stand out to me is the hair up do that holly douse. The hair style is
elegant and be worn as a day look and as well as an evening look.
The makeup artist in this film was Wally Wesmore, The hair designer
was Nellie Manley and the fashion stylist was by Edith Hed and Hubort Givcnchy
